Category Archives: Your Rabbit’s Health
FAQ Friday: Your Advice Questions Answered!
Question:
Dear Budget Bunny,
I’m thinking about getting a friend for my bunny, but I’m not sure I want another bunny. I have researched online and many articles say to get a guinea pig. I have never had a guinea pig before so I don’t know their behavior. Do you think I should get a guinea pig to bond with my rabbit ? Why or why not ?
Thank you so very much,
G
Answer:
Hi G,
This is a great question so I’m glad you asked it! In the past it was considered acceptable to house bunnies and guinea pigs together but now that we know more about both types of animals, it’s not the best decision for either species. Guinea pigs have different dietary needs then rabbits so although they both eat hay they would each need their own food. It would be extremely hard to monitor this if both animals were kept together. A rabbit could also easily injure a guinea pig. Rabbits have very strong back legs and a good kick (even unintentional) could easily hurt a guinea pig’s delicate frame. Rabbits also tend to be territorial (especially an unneutered or unspayed one) and again could really injure a guinea pig if he/she tried to mount the much smaller piggy. Any kind of bullying or cage aggression would also put the guinea pig at risk. Finally, I’ve always believed that the best companion for your pet is one of the same species. A rabbit is the only friend that will really understand another rabbit’s behaviour. No matter how close a bunny and guinea pig may seem, they still won’t be able to effectively communicate with one another.
Hope that helps in your decision making!
FAQ Friday: Your Advice Questions Answered!
Question:
My sister has two bunnies, both males, and 1 year old. One of them is always wet around the eyes, to humans it would be like crying, but im not sure what it means for bunnies. No matter how much she cleans them, it’s still wet around both of his eyes. Could it be something serious enough for her to take him to the vet?
If you can help me i would much appreciate it.
Thank you,
S.
Answer:
Is it just a clear discharge? If there’s any coloured goo like green or yellow then I would definitely take the bunny to the vet as it sounds like an ocular infection.
If they are just extra runny there can be several reasons so you may have to try some different things. Rabbits are very sensitive and can be allergic to many things like bedding, laundry detergent and urine buildup. If your sister uses shavings the rabbit could be allergic to this which would cause his eyes to run. Try a different bedding or getting rid of the bedding altogether (they don’t really need it and it can prevent them from forming good litterbox habits). It could also be a sensitivity to a buildup of urine. Try changing the litterbox more often. If the bunny doesn’t have a litterbox but is just on bedding then the cage may need changing more often.
Are there any blankets you use in the cage as bedding for your rabbit? What are you washing them with? If it’s a strongly scented laundry detergent it may be what’s bothering your rabbit’s eyes. Strongly scented candles, air fresheners or incense may also be the cause.
If none of this helps then you may need to see the vet. Many teeth problems will cause eye problems (because they are so close to one another) or there may be some other kind of reason as to why the bunny’s eyes are running.
FAQ Friday: Your Advice Questions Answered!
Question:
I was watching your videos with my daughter who is getting a bunny. She is 12 and very excited to get a bunny.
I myself have had hamsters, hedgehogs and guniea pigs, but never a bunny.
After watching a lot of videos, I noticed that a lot say to sit on your floor with a new bunny and let them come to you and not lift them up. What I am wondering though, is if you have a cage that is not sitting on the floor, should we put it on the floor and then let the bunny hop out and when they are new, will they allow you to pick them up to put them back in the cage when they need to go back? We have watched videos on how to handle a bunny and pick it up which I was worried about, but it looks like if you are firm without hurting them, it is not too hard. I want the bunny to get used to my daughter but we will have to pick it back up to put it back in the cage.
Thanks so much,
J
Answer:
Hi J,
If you can, it is preferred to have the rabbit’s cage on the floor so the bunny can hop in and out when it wants. This makes the bunny feel safe as it never has to leave the ground and bunny can also retreat to it’s cage when it wants to. It is always good to let them be able to go to their safe place (the cage) when it is feeling wary or threatened. Rabbits in the wild tend to always stay near their warren or have an escape route planned to get them back home when they need to.
As for picking the bunny up, I always snuggled with our rabbits from the moment we brought them home so I don’t find any of them to be particularly bad with being picked up. You must hold them very securely against your body though and support their back legs so they feel as safe as possible and so they can’t kick out their legs and break their back. The problem with trying to pick up a rabbit during their exercise time is that their instincts quickly take over as they feel like you’re swooping in on them, will panic and begin running and hiding places. This is terrifying for your rabbit, frustrating for you, and can damage the bond you’ve been working on with bunny. My suggestion is to leave the cage door open and wait for your rabbit to hop in it, then close the cage door. This may or may not be on your schedule but it’s easy and less stressful on bunny. Now that I’ve had my rabbits for so long, what I do is sit on the floor, wait until one approaches me for a snuggle, pet them for a few minutes so they feel nice and calm, and then scoop them up and bring them back to their cage. It’s important to note that you don’t want to be doing this every time your bunny comes over to be pet, otherwise they’re going to associate that behaviour with being picked up and locked away again.
Rabbit Organization & Supplies Part 1 of 2
Part 2 to come shortly!
When Bunny Won’t Use The Litterbox – 10 Useful Tips to Improve Litterbox Habits
One reason often given when people surrender their rabbits to a shelter is that their bunny has poor litterbox habits. Who hasn’t wondered why their bunny eliminated right next to its litterbox instead of inside it? It can be a vexing problem for many bunny parents – but it’s not unsolvable. There’s hope even for the messiest bunny!
Here are some common reasons why bunny might not use the litterbox properly and how to remedy the situation:
1. New surroundings – Often when bringing a new bunny home, bunny will mark its new territory with droppings and/or urine, even when a litterbox is available. This instinctive territorial marking will usually cease after the first week or two, especially if you do not clean up immediately. If a new bunny is being brought home to an existing house bunny, expect each bunny’s litterbox habits to regress for a while. Any room(s) shared by unbonded bunnies in turn will also likely be subjected to territorial marking. This should not be confused with poor litterbox habits.
2. Young bunnies – Baby buns under 6 months or so often have poor litterbox habits. It is well-known that spaying and neutering rabbits helps tremendously with establishing good litterbox habits. Be patient with your young bunny, and fix your bunny as soon as it’s old enough (around 4-6 months).
3. Wrong litter – A litterbox filled with the wrong type of litter may bother some bunnies. Most bunnies like wood stove pellets (without chemical propellants) and this is your cheapest litter option besides simple, shredded newspaper. Yesterdays News and Feline Pine can also be tried if bunny dislikes the regular wood stove pellets found at the hardware store in economical 40lb bags. Some rabbits even prefer NO litter at all in their litterbox! Experiment with different kinds, but avoid cedar & pine wood shavings and crystalline cat litters, which may endanger bunny’s health.
4. Wrong size – Some persnickety smaller rabbits don’t like jumping up too high into their litterboxes; try a shallower one. Another trick is to adjust the level of litter inside the litterbox to see if bunny prefers a more or less full one. Some large rabbits may feel cramped in a too small litterbox and require a bigger one. A too tall or too shallow litterbox may also be the reason why bunny is not using his litterbox, so experiment with different plastic box sizes and heights until your bunny is happy. I recommend buying Rubbermaid or Sterilite clear, plastic, shallow under-the-bed bins at Target or Walmart when on sale!
5. Too clean/too dirty – Strange as it may seem, some bunnies don’t like their litterboxes spotless! After cleaning, these buns may eliminate next to the litterbox instead of inside it. For such bunnies, try tossing a few old droppings into the fresh litterbox or place a small scoop of soiled litter on top of the clean litter. Still other bunnies won’t use a litterbox that is too soiled – smelly and dirty! More frequent litterbox changes, with a white vinegar rinse in between to remove stains before adding fresh litter, is the answer for these bunnies.
6. Not enough boxes – A common complaint is that cage-free house bunnies eliminate or mark in every room, especially when there are multiple bunnies or other animals visiting/living in the home. Placing several litterboxes around the home – perhaps even in one corner of each room bunny has access to – may help encourage bunny to eliminate in a litterbox instead of on your floor, carpet, or furniture.
7. Too much space to roam – When litterbox training your rabbit, start with a small, confined space or room containing a litterbox. Let bunny demonstrate s/he can reliably use the litterbox in this smaller space, before gradually expanding his/her roaming space, one room or hallway at a time. If bunny relapses, start the process over again, restricting the roaming space until good litterbox habits are reestablished, before slowly enlarging the roaming area again.
8. Digging – Some rabbits just enjoy digging litter out of their litterbox. This is often seen in female rabbits, who have a strong burrowing/nesting instinct. First, try changing the kind of litter. If this doesn’t work, try placing a second plastic “digging box” filled with either shredded paper, dirt, sand or small pebbles into the rabbit’s habitat. An unused bathtub can also make a good “digging area” for bunny when filled with a small box of sand, dirt or paper – or even snow in the wintertime! Or perhaps consider allowing your bunny some supervised outdoor “digging time” in a safe, secure, walled- or fenced-in area, away from predators.
9. Prefers another spot – Placed litterboxes all around and bunny still prefers to eliminate somewhere else? Move the litterbox to bunny’s preferred spot. It’s much easier to accommodate a determined bunny than to retrain one to use the litterbox in another location you prefer. This is when giving in to bunny makes sense!
10. Unknown reason – If all else fails, I recommend trying this which worked well for one of my own litterbox-averse bunnies: Build a feeding station just beyond the litterbox requiring bunny to stand inside the litterbox while eating, drinking and chewing hay. This can be easily and inexpensively done by using a small, empty shoebox in a corner of the room or cage, onto which the ceramic food & water bowls are placed. Push the litterbox right up against the shoebox and push the other litterbox edge against the wall. Place hay either inside the litterbox or just beyond it in a small box next to the food & water. Bunny will get used to standing in his litterbox while eating and drinking, which is often when elimination occurs. This will rapidly improve bunny’s litterbox habits!
Most rabbits will learn fairly quickly and easily to use a litterbox since they are by nature very clean animals. If yours doesn’t for some reason, these ten tips should soon help bunny to reliably use the litterbox. Remember, always be patient with your bunny while working on litterbox habits, and consider giving positive reinforcements in the form of fruit or veggie treats when bunny is successful. NEVER strike nor shout at bunny when accidents occur outside the litterbox – this is counterproductive and harmful to your rabbit. If your bunny’s litterbox habits should suddenly deteriorate without good reason (such as the presence of a new bunny or animal in the house, etc), please consider a rabbit-savvy vet visit to rule out a possible illness. Now, go clean out bunny’s litterbox!
Written By: The Bunderful Iris – Guest Blogger