Category Archives: DIY Rabbit Housing
Cleaning House!
One of the not so glamorous jobs of being a pet owner is cleaning up after them! And let’s be honest, most of us don’t enjoy cleaning either. From my experience, rabbits require more work than a cat or dog because they tend to be messier. Most rabbits spend some part of their day in a confined space (like a cage), some find a litterbox to be more of a suggestion than a rule and some find the most pleasure in destroying, shredding, ripping and digging through anything and everything they can get their little paws on!
So here are some of my cleaning tips and tricks to make it go as quick and painless as possible!
Give your rabbit a larger home. Building your own bunny house is cheaper than buying a too-small store bought cage and is actually easier to clean! Whether it’s a bunny proofed room or a custom built bunny condo the more space your rabbit has the less mess you’ll have to clean up! I know it sounds weird but it’s true! In the beginning I had regular store bought rabbit cages my rabbits could barely move in. I didn’t do this on purpose – like many I just didn’t know any better. The cages got messy quickly and were very heavy to lug down to the laundry tub to clean out. Also I found because my buns had less room they were constantly tipping over things like their dishes and wouldn’t bother with their corner litterboxes.
Once we built their rabbit condos they instantly became tidier. They all use their litterboxes diligently and their cages are large enough that I can easily crawl in them to clean which means no lifting for me! And they’ve got lots of room to move and hop so they aren’t always hitting things in their cage or causing trouble because they’re bored.
Due to the size of the cages and because our rabbits use their litterboxes in their cages, we also no longer need bedding. The cost of bedding with four rabbits in large cages would have been astronomical and we found there was no need for it. We chose tile instead of carpet so our rabbits wouldn’t dig and ingest any of it and because it makes for easier cleanup.
Larger Litterboxes. Although the dollar store kitchen tubs I recommended work well and my rabbits loved them, they were a little small for my medium sized bunnies to move around so litter was always being kicked everywhere. Since we had the room, I upgraded them to a long storage container I bought at Wal-Mart on sale for $4 and they love them! There’s room for them to lounge, move around, and burrow (which they love to do when their boxes are fresh). This also means I can change them once or twice a week instead of daily.
One trick we also used was buying two containers and bolting one to the back of the cage. Slide the litterbox in on top of the bolted one and your rabbit can’t move the box when they jump around and it’s still easy for you to lift in and out.
Since we’re changing litter constantly I started mixing carefresh bedding with shredded newspaper to save on cost. I have family and friends saving me newspapers and bringing me large garbage bags full of shredded paper on a regular basis. Best of all it’s FREE!
Shop Vac. I’m not talking about those cute little compact ones, you need a heavy duty shopvac if you want to do some serious cleaning! I have serious back problems and one of the best things I ever did was invest in a shopvac to clean the rabbit room. They aren’t cheap but I suffered through back pain, 3 vacuum cleaners, clogged hoses and lots of money before figuring this one out. Rabbits poop, they get hay everywhere and they’re constantly chewing, shredding and ripping things. I tried the shopvac with a smaller hose but it jammed instantly. The ends were smaller than the hose so it became useless after that. Once I’ve cleaned out the litterboxes I shopvac the mess in all four cages which only takes me a matter of minutes, then spray the flooring with cleanser and wipe down.
Cleaning Solutions & Washcloths. This is a good place to save some money! I buy washcloths at the dollar store so I don’t feel guilty about tossing them when they’ve worn down. Using a mixture of 1 part vinegar and 2 parts water, you can make your own safe and all natural cleaning solution to wipe their cages down with. Spray bottles to keep the solution in can also be picked up at your local dollar store.
I also love wet naps! You can also find these at the dollar store and they’re great for those quick wipe-ups you may need to do now and again.
After a few years of trying out different things I’ve finally got a great routine down! It’s still a lot of work but with these tips I’ve got cleaning down to approximately 8 minutes per cage! Of course this doesn’t include extended bunny snuggle time! *wink* *wink*
Introducing The Newlyweds!
We have big news at BB’s house! Rocky and Honey have officially moved in together! As you may know a little over a year ago we trashed the standard store bought cages and built our Buns luxurious condos. At the time, neither of the girls were spayed so we constructed them as four separate cages with two stacked on top of one another. We envisioned that one day when Rocky and Honey were fully bonded we would cut a hole in the bottom of her cage and make them one super cage to live in. Honey was spayed two months later, then we were told to wait another 6-8 weeks to reintroduce them to make sure all of her hormones had settled and the incision was fully healed and before we knew it we had put it off for an entire year!
Rocky and Honey played together during free-range time but had to go to separate homes at night. Finally enough was enough! It was so adorable watching them run to one another and smother each other with kisses when I’d let them out, I hated that they were being kept apart! I mentioned it to Hubby who said he could use a good weekend project and he planned out the best way to go about it.
In hindsight it would have been much easier to do all of this when we originally built the cages, then fasten a storage cube to keep them separate but we were so exhausted with our four day cage building extravaganza at the time that we just couldn’t be bothered. Something to remember for next time (what’s that? – I can hear Hubby’s voice in my head right now – there will be no next time because we aren’t getting any more rabbits, our house is full! Me – Yes dear….wink).
Anywho, this is what Hubby did:
First he removed one of the far left cubes from the bottom and cut a hole through the bottom level of Honey’s cage. He did this by using a large bit and drilling a hole through the floor and then using one of his saws (sorry I’m not very handy I just know that it was a saw) to cut the hole. Next he measured the hole and built a frame out of all natural wood. He drilled holes through the sides of the wood and through the bottom of the floor and attached the frame using zip ties since this was easier then trying to bolt the frame to the floor. This now framed the hole making it look more finished but also stopping the bunnies from trying to rip up the flooring. He left about 6” off one side of the frame and built a ramp which he then secured with sturdy hinges to the floor and just like that the individual cages were now a super cage! They now have four levels to hop up and down and can spend all of their time snuggling and being completely adorable!
Then came the big test! Rocky and Honey get along great outside of their cages but would they be territorial inside their cages? I cleaned their cages thoroughly and decided to put each rabbit in the opposite cage. They each spent the first 10 minutes or so chinning and sniffing because they weren’t used to their surroundings. Finally Rocky saw the ramp….. And hopped down it. Honey was in her litter box chewing some hay when she popped her head up. Hubby and I tensed, me with my water bottle in hand in case they started scrapping and….
Honey jumped out of the box and Rocky started grooming her head! Honey returned the favour and they began exploring together!
Just in case I spent the next hour watching them and although Rocky got a little frisky at one point, he wasn’t being mean and Honey didn’t seem to mind.
Honey that’s not very ladylike!
I did decide to remove Honey’s litter box. I know that means I’ll have to remember to clean the other one twice as often but it gives them that much more room in their cage. So far, they’ve both taken to using the one just fine. I’m also testing out having only one water and food dish. So far, so good. When I filled up their pellets they both hopped over to the bowl but then took turns nibbling from it. Too cute! Now they are both completely flopped on separate floors. They look totally relaxed and happy but it’s funny – Honey is hanging out in what used to be Rocky’s cage and Rocky is hanging out in what used to be Honey’s cage!
May they live happily ever after!
Getting Your Rabbit Outdoors!
For those of us who live in a four season climate, we’re just starting to see warmer weather and sunny days! Like so many of us who can’t wait to get outside I believe our fuzzy little friends enjoy the fresh air just as much as we do! Before letting Mr. & Mrs. Buns romp around in the great outdoors you should know there are quite a few reasons to take caution when bringing them outside:
- Rabbits don’t fare well in extreme temperatures. This means keeping them indoors during those high humidity or super hot summer days us humans pine for.
- Rabbits are prey animals. Animals such as cats and large birds may see them in your backyard and think they look like a tasty treat.
- Rabbits are expert diggers. Your fence may leave no room for escape but leave your rabbit unattended for even a few minutes and he could be on his way to freedom (or death)!
- Rabbits are speed and hop demons. My bunnies are so excited to have our backyard to run around in they did laps and jump a good 3 feet in the air! Make sure you have a high fence your rabbit can’t jump over and move lawn chairs and tables that could serve as bunny launch pads away from the fence. If you have a large backyard you may want to use a bunny play pen, ex-pen or make your own pen to keep your rabbits in one area. Otherwise I can guarantee your bunny will love the outdoors so much that getting him or her to come inside will be a challenge! Plus, if an emergency does come up (like a hawk swooping down from the sky) you can quickly scoop up your rabbit.
I would like to say that I in no way advocate keeping a rabbit permanently outdoors to live full time in a hutch. A rabbit should be part of your family, not an afterthought. Your bunny shouldn’t be left to live in the harsh environmental conditions of the outdoors like thunderstorms, hailstorms, snowstorms, severe heat and the horrid cold. An outdoor rabbit on average lives half as long as an indoor rabbit. That being said I don’t think there’s anything wrong with giving your rabbit an afternoon of supervised outside playtime. In fact I think it’s good for you and your Bunny!
Before bringing your rabbit outdoors you’ll have to decide if you’re going to keep your rabbit in an enclosure. We built our rabbits a fully enclosed run so we can leave our rabbits while at work and still know they’re safe. The ground of the run is actually large cement slabs which stay cool in the shady place we chose for them. It also makes it impossible for them to dig through. One half of the run has a shingled roof just in case a sudden rainstorm hits before I can get them out of there. There is also a large hidey house we built them which stays nice and cool on hotter days and gives them a place to hide if something startles them. If you use an enclosed rabbit house when your rabbit is outside make sure to bring all food, water and hay inside every night. You don’t want bugs getting in to their food and their water should be changed once or twice a day depending on how hot it is.
If you opt to have your rabbits run around loose in the backyard or in a semi-open enclosure (such as an ex-pen) then you must be supervising your rabbits the entire time they’re out there! Accidents can happen in seconds and you don’t want to take any chances! This is a member of your family after all!
If you’re going to let your rabbit run loose in the backyard have a good look around to see any escape or problem areas. If you have a high deck your rabbit could sneak underneath you’re going to have to think of a creative way to block it off OR perhaps an enclosed, designated rabbit area would be better for you. Have a thorough look at your fence. Are there any holes your rabbit could squeeze through (remember how small they can make themselves to fit in any nook and cranny) or is the fence higher at any point? Our backyard slopes slightly so although the surrounding fence is safe, at the back gate it’s high enough for our rabbits to easily escape through. To fix that problem I used a few storage cubes and secured them tightly to the fence with heavy string.
Having your rabbit run around loose also makes them an easy meal for predators. Being a city dweller may limit the amount of animals that come around your backyard but it doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be wary. Large birds such as hawks and crows could still be living in trees close by. Predators such as cats and raccoons may also think your rabbit is a tasty treat. Not only being there to keep a watchful eye but also providing houses or areas for your rabbits to hide if they feel threatened is the perfect way to keep your rabbit as safe as possible. And if you just want to let your bunny explore a little without having to worry about building pens and bunny proofing, a well fitted harness and leash will work just fine!
I’ll be posting more in blogs to come about outdoor bunnies but in the meantime enjoy this video of our buns having a great time in our backyard on a beautiful fall day!
The Bunny Play Pen!
Are you wanting to give your rabbit some out of cage time but don’t trust your rabbit to stay out of trouble when you’re out? Perhaps the most logical room to let your bunny play in is also the one that would get them in to the most trouble!
Remember those storage cubes we used to make Buns a spectacular, roomy house? Well they’re also an economical way to make makeshift gates and my favourite – the bunny play pen!
Supplies
- Storage Cubes
- Zip Ties
- Wire Cutters
- Foam Floor Mats (Optional)
- Old Blankets (Optional)
- Lots of toys! (A Must!)
Building Your Bunny Play Pen
Begin by laying the cubes out on the ground, then attach them together with the zip ties. I recommend securing your cubes by wrapping a zip tie around every other grid. That way its nice and secure and if a few pop off here and there you don’t have to worry about the entire thing falling apart. Finish off by cutting the zip ties, leaving a small amount of the zip tie exposed. That way if one becomes loose you can still grip it with pliers and then tighten it again.
What you’ll need to determine is how tall to make your play pen. Is your rabbit content to just be out and about or an expert escape artist? Back in the day, my husband and I frequently found 3 out of 4 of our rabbits would escape from the Ex-Pen we used to have, the 4th was just happy to have some extra space to spend his day in. So when we built our rabbit pen we built it 3 cubes tall. I wouldn’t suggest making it less than 2 cubes tall and watch out for secret bunny launch pads like hidey houses that can provide just enough added height for the perfect escape!
For more in depth instructions on assembling your storage cubes please refer to my blog on Building Your Own Bunny Condo under DIY Rabbit Housing.
The doorway is easy! Just build a long line of cubes and join each end with binder clips! If you use multiple small clips lengthwise, it provides easy access for you to get in and out of the pen but also securely keeps them inside.
Get Creative!
Originally I had purchased 3 packs of storage cubes to start my bunny play pen. I had tons of other cubes I had assembled in to pre-made gates to section off areas like under the bed or around the tv which I of course wasn’t using when the bunnies were in the pen. So I decided to join them together temporarily with binder clips to make the pen even larger!
We also had extra cubes laying around and since we put our pen in the kitchen (where there were lots of spaces completely closed off) I decided to use just a single row of cubes to prevent them from chewing the cupboards but still creating a complete, joined pen making it impossible for them to escape.
Making Your Pen Rabbit Friendly
Depending on where you’re putting your rabbit play pen and how litter trained your rabbit is, you may want to lay down some blankets, mats or my favourite – foam tiles. These are always on sale at Wal-Mart or Canadian Tire and interlock together. They’re perfect for adding traction (if your rabbits hate to play on slippery flooring) and prevent your rabbit from digging through your carpet, your tile, scratching up your hardwood or leaving you little presents to try and clean up!
I use as many tiles as I can and then lay old (but clean) blankets on top of the tiles. That way when they start digging they’re not ripping up the foam or eating through it. It also helps to keep any urine stains from soaking in to the foam. To secure the blankets, I put them under the heavy play pen. It’s very rare that my rabbits are able to rearrange their blankets enough to pull them up from under the play pen’s weight.
Next up is furnishing! Water, pellets and hay are absolutely essential! Rabbit’s are grazers, needing a constant supply of ‘munchies’. I’m sure they’d appreciate some fresh treats too! Hidey houses, tunnels, cardboard boxes and an assortment of toys will add intrigue and fun! I always make sure to leave lots of hopping space! My rabbits are often so excited to have free time that they binky and run laps!
Using Cubes As Gates
Building small gates to corner off areas you want to keep your rabbits away from is inexpensive and easy with storage cubes but if your rabbits are nosy they need to be used with supervision only. Rocky and Honey will join forces, take an end in their mouths and heave the gate upwards until it’s shifted just enough that they can sneak their little bunny bottoms around the gate! Our Christmas wrap was full of holes from Rocky pulling this move, then sneaking under our bed where I couldn’t reach him!
Building Your Own Bunny Condo – A Step By Step How To
Before reading this, please refer to my previous blog which provides reasons why building your own rabbit home is the way to go. There is also a link to our video to give you a visual of how we built our condos!
That being said, step by step how-to’s always come in handy!
Supplies
- Storage Cubes
Your rabbit condos are going to be constructed out of storage cubes. These are 14″x14″ wire cubes that come in flat grids to be assembled for storage. However, partnered with zip ties, you can build pretty much any structure you’d like!
One of the great things about these cubes is that they aren’t overly big so you can just use less or more cubes depending on the space you’re building your condo for and the size of rabbit you have!
We found our storage cubes at Wal-Mart but also saw them at Space Age Solutions (where they were more expensive). If you’re in the States, apparently Target sells them too.
- Zip Ties
Get the largest pack of zip ties you can find (We got ours at Lowes where 1000 zip ties was $9.99) because you’re going to need them!
Get the smaller zip ties. They will hold together better than the larger ones which tend to slip on the narrow storage cube grids.
- Wire Cutters
Take it from us – scissors are not the answer! Your hand will be cramping in a matter of minutes! Instead invest in a pair of wire cutters. This will make cutting the extra off those zip ties easy peesy!
- Wood for flooring, to act as a perimeter around your cage and ramps.
Any of those supplies are fairly inexpensive and you can find them at any building supplies stores. For the frame around the cage you’re going to want to spend a little extra and get all natural wood. It’s very rare that your rabbit won’t nibble on it here or there and anything chemically treated could kill your rabbit.
- Tile or Carpet to line your floors
This one is really just a preference. Some people like carpet because it’s warmer and adds traction for their rabbits to hop and play on. We at BudgetBunny went with tile because it’s easy to clean and our rabbits are not the best at using their litter boxes. Our rabbits also love to dig and rip and we didn’t want them ingesting any of the fibres. Plus, they’re in the warmest room in our house (don’t worry it’s not hot or anything, just gets a lot of midday sun) so the tile is nice and cool for them to stretch out on.
If you’re going with tile any will do! We picked the least expensive peel and stick tile they had to keep our cost low but if you want to match your decor you might opt for something fancier.
- Drill & Any Necessary Screws and Hinges
Hopefully you or someone handy will have a drill for you to borrow because they don’t come cheap! You’ll want a drill to secure the wood you’re using for framing to the base floors.
- Any furnishings you’ll want to include such as a hay rack, litter box, toys etc.
Let’s Get Building!
Start by measuring the space you plan to put your rabbit condo in. You’ll need to worry about the length, depth and height to build your cage. Remember to think about access to your rabbit and cleaning if you are looking to build your cage taller instead of longer or wider. Since the grids are 14” across when I broke down mine I thought in terms of how many grids I could fit in to my allocated space. The largest cage I could fit was 4 grids tall by 4 grids long by 2 grids deep.
BudgetBunny Savings Tip! Get creative with supplies you might already have in your house! We already had an ex-pen which are really pricey! It was only a few years old so instead of constructing our second cage from scratch we used a mixture of both the ex-pen and the storage cubes to build the condo that we wanted.
Once you’ve determined your dimensions it’s time to get building! Start by lining up your storage cubes beside one another and use the zip ties to attach them to one another. I wanted to make sure my rabbit condos were secure and safe for my rabbits so I put a zip tie around every other grid. It’s also peace of mind knowing that if some snap you’ve got plenty more to support the cage.
BudgetBunny Tip! I don’t recommend using those little white knobs that come with the cubes to connect your cage together. Even with zip ties for extra support, they cause too much of a gap between the corners. Your rabbit could easily get her head stuck in there, or a paw or chew off the looser zip ties….it’s just not safe! And trust me if there’s a will there’s a way!
Around corners I diagonally zip tied the cubes together to give them extra support. Cut any loose ends off with the wire cutters, leaving just enough that you’re able to grip the tie if you need to tighten them later on.
This will be tedious, so I spent a few nights attaching the grids while watching my favourite television shows! Plus it makes it a lot easier for the rest of the construction if you have the perimeter already completed. You may be worried at first because the grids seem floppy, but once you start zip tying them together you’ll quickly notice how sturdy your cage becomes.
Next you’ll need to cut the wood for the floors. We used plywood for our flooring. You’ll be cutting the wood to fit inside the perimeter of the cage. Once you have your wood cut, you can begin laying the tile or carpet. If you choose tile I would also suggest using some hot glue on each corner. It will adhere that much better to the wood and if your rabbit decides to go on a digging rampage it’s less likely she’ll be able to lift one up. It’s also a good idea to put your tiles to the edge of the flooring, even though you’ll be attaching a frame on top. That way there are even less edges for your rabbit to try digging at.
After you’ve finished the flooring, you’ll need to cut wood for the frame. You’ll want the frame to be at least a few inches high so it acts like a barrier to keep whatever your rabbit is kicking and flinging around inside the cage well, inside the cage! We flipped the floor that we’d just tiled upside down, and drilled a hole through the wood and floor, then used a long screw to attach them together. At this point, because of gravity, you may want to use clamps to prevent the tiles from lifting.
Once we had the main floor completed, we wrapped the perimeter of the cage around it. The first thing we noticed was that the cage wasn’t sitting snugly against the floor. To keep everything as easy to clean as possible and to also prevent an injured rabbit, we drilled holes through the wood in between each grid, then used a zip tie to attach the wood to the grids. This forced the cage to stay nice and tight to the wood. Drilling and attaching zip ties to every grid may seem overzealous but between bunnies nibbling on the wood and us moving the cages around periodically, many have come loose.
If you’re building a multi-level condo, you can repeat these steps for additional floors. Create a base for the floor to go on out of storage cubes, set your tile covered base on the cubes and secure to the cage using cable ties. Don’t be stingy on the cable ties here! An entire level of wood is going to be sitting on this so make sure it’s safe for Buns! You may also want to use a piece of doweling directly underneath a few parts of these additional floors to add extra support.
When building ramps you’ll need to use a sturdy piece of wood so it doesn’t bend under your rabbits weight. Large hinges to attach the ramp to the floor will also ensure the ramp doesn’t break. You may also want to build small steps (we cut small pieces of wood and nailed them to the ramp) to aid your rabbit in climbing the ramp. We also ran a small but sturdy strip of wood up the center back of the ramp to add extra support.
Now it’s time for the fun part! Decorating! Fill your rabbit’s new home with lots of hay, food and toys and don’t forget, even though she has a sweet new pad to enjoy, she still needs at least 4 hours of free run time a day to keep her healthy and happy!
Building Your Own Bunny Condo
So you’re thinking about adding a rabbit to your family but those darn cages are so expensive! Don’t worry, you’re not stuck buying one of those store bought homes, why not make your own! There are several great reasons why building your own cage is the right alternative to purchasing one from a pet store….
It’s Cheaper!
That’s right! You can build your own rabbit cage for a fraction of the cost of purchasing a cage from the pet store.
You Can Customize Your Cage To Suit Your Needs!
Our type of rabbit condos are built using 14″ square storage cubes. That means you can truly customize them to the space you have available. Build it taller if you have a narrow space to put the cage or longer if height is a restriction. It’s also much easier to build your cage according to the size of rabbit you have when you’re in full control of it’s dimensions.
Your Cage Will Provide The Proper Space Your Rabbit Requires
Rabbit Organizations state that your rabbit should be able to hop at least three times from one end of their cage to the other, be able to stand up fully on their hind legs and there should be additional levels to provide good muscle development. Store bought cages rarely meet these needs or are ridiculously expensive if you can find them. In fact, other than a ridiculously over-priced Ex-Pen, I have yet to find a cage large enough for a rabbit to live comfortably.
A Larger Cage Is Easier To Clean
That’s right Ladies and Gentlemen. A larger cage is actually easier to maintain! Your rabbit is also more likely to develop proper litter box habits in a cage they can move around in and you’ll have more room to maneuver yourself inside the cage when you’re cleaning it.
It Prevents Boredom And Promotes Exercise
Imagine spending your life in a tiny box you can barely turn around in! How boring that would be! I know I feel cooped up if I’m stuck inside my house all day, let alone if I spent all day in my one piece bathroom! By building your own rabbit condo, your bunny will have room to stretch, veg and play! Plus you won’t feel so bad throwing some extra toys in there to keep them busy when you know there’s still plenty of space for buns too!
Guilt-Free Work Days
Okay I don’t know about you but when I go to work I feel horrible that my critters are at home without me! Even though it’s hard leaving them every morning I feel confident that they have a happy home to spend their day in and I can make it up to them with a full night of free run play time when I get back!
More Enjoyable Rabbit Experience
So you’re rabbit has sat in a tiny box all day, bored to death and barely able to move around….do you think they’re going to be happy when they see you? No way! They’re going to be frustrated with boredom and all that pent up energy they weren’t able to expel while you weren’t home! This can quickly lead to behavioural problems and I wouldn’t blame that bunny one bit!
Below is a video that will help you create your rabbit’s dream home! Best of all, it requires few resources and all are easy to find! A word to the wise, I’m a photographer, not a videographer so my skills are lacking but you’ll get the just of it!
I will be posting step by step instructions in a future blog if you’d prefer to read instead of watch the video but first something to really convince you to make your own cage:
The rabbit condo we built is actually two cages stacked on top of one another. Each cage is 56″x 28″ x 28″. To build the entire thing we spent around $160. That’s it! That’s only $80 per cage and our rabbits are living it up, let me tell you! But check this out! I found this ‘rabbit’ cage in a pet store the other day! It’s a 42″ cage on sale for $199.99! On sale! Check out the photos, it’s nowhere near large enough for a full grown bunny and it’s regular price is $276.99! Insane!
Bet you’re excited to watch the video now aren’t you?!